IMO: I don't think Id set up your riggers like this, I believe they state in the instruction/installation manuals that you do not want your graphs and riggers running off the same power supply due to interference. I may be incorrect about this.
Are you only running 1 battery? If I were running 2 electrics I would be running a (i) starting battery and a (ii) deep cycle battery. Way I run my boat is start the main motor up on the start battery, run a little ways out then switch it to my deep cycle while still heading out. My kicker has an alternator also and charges when I troll, periodically I switch between batteries to top up charge. Even if I was running only 1 motor I would have 2 batteries. Your control panel should have its own power supply with its own inline fuse. Your riggers should each have their own power supply directly from the battery and an inline fuse. You can connect your grounds with no issues but supplies should all be separate.
IMO you do not want to connect your riggers over a switch, simply put in a male/female disconnect that will allow you to easily remove your riggers during storage/hauling/repairs rather than having to remove the wiring and pulling the switch off to disconnect the leads. Switch costs you $100, spend that money on good wire and connectors instead and simplify the idea. I have scotties and use the "Hella Plug and Socket" have had them for over 10 years with no issues; I placed them in an area out of the rain and weather. Worst thing that ever occurred was sometimes it would catch my belt on the wires and disconnect.
Trickle charging through a switch is not recommended either; you should charge directly to your battery and ensure you have an inline fuse, I have run nolco's with no issues, mine are 3 years old now and I trickle charge all winter in a non heated garage with no issues, they are inexpensive, I use my boat all winter so never remove the batteries. Make sure when you are charging that you always keep your settings on cool charging, this will keep the amps down and not fry your battery.
This is just an opinion and how I do it, not saying its 100% correct.
I run starter motor on #1
Deep cycle #2
Control panel that gives power to finder/lights/key switch has its own supply with a 10 amp inline fuse to the fuse block (I use Blue Sea blade ATO/ATC fuse block)and each device has its own 3 amp blade fuse. I have added an inline toggle switch between the control supply and the block. This allows for you to cut power to your devices.
Each down rigger has its own power supply directly off of my battery with an inline 20 amp fuse, you can choose to install a fuse block and branch off it to each rigger if you choose to allow use of blade fuses.
This set up has lasted me 10 years with no issues outside of corrosion occurring on some fittings over time.
If you need extra cable for your batteries look for jumper cables onsale somewhere, cheaper than buying it by the foot, bigger is better for batteries
If you need extra cable for wiring buy an extension chord onsale, it already has weatherproofing sheathing on it and with be braided insulated wires inside rather than buying it by the foot
If you need fine wire for graphs and such, speaker wire works great and is cheap in bulk spools
Best way to connect is to solder ends to connectors, never works its way out
Best way to protect your wires if running through pinch points or rubbing surfaces is to use split auto wire tubing, the non split tubing is cheaper, you can run it all over, and use zip ties to fasten it along its length to area's in the boat, protects great in areas with sharp edges.
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